Published 26 November 2011
Champagne is probably the most famous wine region in the world. In the UK alone, Champagne accounts for annual sales of over £1bn, or 7% of all UK wine sales [Source: Datamonitor, 2010]. Most Champagne is made using a blend of three grape types (Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir), although some styles use only one or two of those grape varieties. It is created using the most labour-intensive and expensive method of producing sparkling wines (known as the ‘Traditional Method’), which results in a smooth, luscious sparkling wine.
It is our favourite drink for celebrations: from weddings to Formula One podiums. Quite simply, we just can’t get enough of it. Did you know that three times more Champagne is sold in December than any other month of the year?
In contrast, all other sparkling wines account for only 1.7% of total UK wine sales (£260m in value). This includes wines such as Prosecco, Asti, Cava and all other wines made to the same exacting standards as Champagne but, as they’re not from that little area of France, aren’t allowed to call their wine “Champagne”.
One such region is Franciacorta in Lombardy, Italy. These wines are made from the same three grape types (again, different styles using different blends). They are also made using the Traditional Method. But these wines are unknown to most of us. I’d certainly never heard of Franciacorta until the region was chosen as the venue for the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference.
What does it taste like? Like Champagne, it varies from producer to producer. But, from the wines I tasted this month, I found:
- Most had small bubbles (an established sign of a well-made sparkling wine)
- Nearly all had a good level of acidity (like Champagne) – especially in the finish (that is, after you’d swallowed it)
- Some had bready notes that are quite often found in Champagne (this comes from leaving the dead yeast in the bottle whilst the wine ages)
- Some are really fizzy, whilst others have a more delicate froth (the proper term for this is “mousse” – the former being described as an aggressive mousse, the later as a creamy or delicate mousse)
- There’s not a lot of difference in price
So, if these wine regions produce such similar wines, why is Champagne so famous, yet Franciacorta so unknown? Why does Champagne sell over 200 million bottles every year, yet Franciacorta sell less than 10 million?In short, history and marketing. Champagne has over 300 years of history and has been popular with the British for centuries; Franciacorta has only been producing sparkling wine since around the 1960s. Champagne also spends a phenomenal amount of money promoting its wines as a luxury item; Franciacorta doesn’t.
As a result, I don’t see how Franciacorta can get a foothold in the market to bring their wines out of obscurity. Our bond with Champagne (especially in the UK) is just too strong – especially when there is no differentiation in price to draw us away. Prosecco, another Italian sparkling wine, has got into the mainstream because it has this USP: it uses a cheaper method of production, therefore it can hit a lower price point – although pricey versions do exist. But with small production levels and an expensive production method, this is not a viable option that is open to Franciacorta.
Maybe this obscurity is their angle. Maybe it should promote itself as the unknown quality sparkling wine. I can see the ad campaign now: “Are you a wine snob who likes drinking Champagne, but wants to impress friends by serving wines they’ve not heard of? Franciacorta, as luxurious as Champagne, as rare as a nun in a bikini”.
Want to try some? As you might have gathered, there’s not a lot of Franciacorta available in the UK, but I’ve tracked down a few for you to try. I’d love to know your thoughts.
- The Sampler: Berlucchi Franciacorta (2006) £19.35 (also available through Highbury Vintners at £19.50)
- Bibendum: Franciacorta Cuvee Brut (NV) £25
- Colasanti: Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut (NV) £24
- Flagship Wines: Franciacorta Brut (NV) £20.25
UPDATE: Since writing this, Vini Italiani has launched and stocks a huge range of Franciacorta. Thanks guys!
- Vini Italiani which is a 100% Italian wine store in London who tell me that they stock loads of Franciacorta: Fratelli Berlucchi, Il Mosnel, Bellavista, Ca del Bosco, Cavalleri, Monterossa (23 in total!)
If anyone has details of where Franciacorta is available in other countries, please don’t hesitate to add info in the comments.
Same problem that a lot of English sparkling faces – trying to break that emotional bond with Champagne when often it is made with same grapes, similar soil, climate, etc. Down to price point. Thanks for the list.
Thanks Paola. Yes, it’s certainly an uphill struggle for English sparkling wine producers too; they’ve also got the stigma that the UK doesn’t have the reputation as a quality wine producer – at least Italy already has a good reputation.
Perhaps the way forward is to push it in Italian restaurants? Talking of which the on-trade has a few available – I don’t know the producer but the Du Vin bar stocked one on my last visit. This was pre-EWBC and I wasn’t entirely sure of what exactly we were drinking!
My local, the Princess Victoria in London W12, has Berlucchi listed. Can get it at shop price on a Monday if you buy a main course. Which I might just have to do.
LOVED this post on franciacorta… I have been wanting to write about this same topic. I am still surprised so many people have never heard of franciacorta considering its similarity to champagne. I was wondering where you could find it in the States too… I am living in Italy so it has become the norm but very interesting topic!
Hey Wine Monkey,
Popped into The Sampler in Angel and they don’t stock the one you’ve linked to, but had another at the same price. Will try it and post some thougths!
Hi Rich,
I am a monkey, but this isn’t part of the wine monkey gang (although I appreciate their posting of the link to my blog).
You are correct, Islington is out of Berlucchi, but does have the Ferghettina. I spoke to Julien at the South Kensington shop, they do have the Berlucchi and the Ferghettina. Sorry for any inconvenience. Hopefully our interest in Franciacorta will spur them to buy a few more bottles in the future.
Thanks for your comment and interest.
@wine_scribbler and @sipswooshspit, thanks for the comments and great pointers for where we can get Franciacorta when in a restaurant. If you want something sparkling when out you know you’re going to pay through the nose, so why not try something non-Champagne where the restaurant probably doesn’t load the price too much as they don’t think they’ll get away with it. Franciacorta could be the restaurant bargains…?
Anna, thanks for the comment. @thewinehub, do you know where we can buy Franciacorta in the US?
Zelas.co.uk sell a Montenisa Franciacorta Brut Antinori for £23.60, either online or in their shop on Archway Road, Highgate. They have a very interesting, arcane selection of wine there that’s worth a look-in – and no, I’m not one of their employees trolling
@FeargusOSUll Thanks for the pointer
Hi David,
excellent piece. We opened the first 100% Italian wine store in London back in November 2011 and we stock loads of Franciacorta: Fratelli Berlucchi, Il Mosnel, Bellavista, Ca del Bosco, Cavalleri, Monterossa (23 references in total).
Here’s a link to our selection: http://www.vini-italiani.co.uk/page/1?s=franciacorta+lombardia+sparkling&submit=Search
Would be good if you could add us to the list of retailiers art the end of the post!
Thanks in advance
Matteo
I had a bottle of Ferghettina Brut yesterday to celebrate a friend’s new home and engagement. It was terrific and for the money better than any grand marque Champagne. I like the tropical notes on the finish of the Frannys I’ve had in the past, including the Fergy yesterday. I plan to investigate more.
Hi my name is Nana and I have started a blog about Franciacorta, the place where I live…If you want to know this land over the wine, please visit my blog… http://genuinefranciacorta.blogspot.it/ have a nice day, Nana